LovesTheTeam.com

You will need

• - putty knife
• - dry gypsum plaster
• - painting tape
• - brush
• - building mixer
• - PVA glue
• - primer of deep penetration
• - fine-grained sandpaper

Instructions

1

Remove the cracked cement screed from the seam. Do this with a spatula or a nozzle on the drill. Carefully clean the advanced the seam, so that there were no large, or small, pieces of old aggregate that fell out.

2

Dust off the surface. Dilute the deep penetration primer as indicated on the label. Select the width of the brush in accordance with the size of the seam that you want to miss. The brush should fit well inside the crack, soaking the entire surface of the primer so that there is good adhesion to the leveling mixture. Dry the smeared the seam.

3

Dilute with water a dry gypsum plaster, aswritten in the instructions. Mix the mass with a construction mixer so that there are no lumps. If you dilute a small amount of the mixture, you can mix it with a spatula.

4

Fill the prepared solution with all the cracks. If the crack is deep, then apply the solution in several layers. Each time, completely dry the previous layer. If the seam between the ceiling slabs is very wide, then fill it with a mounting foam. When it dries, cut off excess and apply a leveling compound.

5

When the fresh plaster on the joint completely dries, the seam glue PVA and paste the paint tape. The width of the paint tape should be more by a couple of centimeters than the seam, for greater strength. Top on the tape, put the filler. Dry and sand the surface with fine-grained sandpaper.

Instructions

1

To seal the external seams on the facade of the house, it is best to draw a brigadepromalpinists. The fact is that this work is usually done at an impressive height from the ground and for its carrying out it is simply vital professional equipment for hanging the promalpinist from the roof and descending and ascending along the vertical surface. Use self-made devices for high-altitude work is extremely dangerous for life.

2

With "home" seams, you can easily handle yourself. The seam to be treated should be well cleaned with a spatula and a knife from leftovers and inner contents.

3

Then the seam is cleaned of dust. This is necessary for a more dense fit and fixing of finishing materials involved in the repair. For this purpose, an automobile or a common household vacuum cleaner is suitable.

4

To fill the seam from the inside, you can usepolyurethane foam sealant. It is an elastic flexible tube, resembling rubber in structure, of various diameters. There is a solid and hollow seal. It is better to use hollow, because it is easier to work with and easier to fit into the seam. The diameter of such insulation should be selected in such a way that it is several millimeters larger than the width of the processed seam. It is possible to use a single piece of pipe along the entire length to maintain tightness.

5

Seal the seal tube gently with your fingersor a wooden trowel in the seam along the entire length so that there is a space of 1-3 mm outside the seam for subsequent seam treatment. Cutting of insulating material is not practiced. Moons of polyurethane tube: due to uneven filling of the inner surface of the weld, leakage of the joint, freezing and accumulation of moisture can be observed.

6

A better material used forsealing of inter-panel joints, is a construction foam. Before use, the balloon with foam is strongly shaken for a few minutes and the tube is attached to the foam outlet. The seam is sealed from the bottom upwards. It is necessary to try to evenly advance the cylinder along the length of the seam and maintain the same pressure on the outlet valve.

7

The main advantage - as the solidification foamwidens evenly along the entire length fills the seam and provides a seal. The disadvantage of the mounting foam is that after drying it sticks out from the seam and its excess has to be cut off. After cutting, a dense top layer is removed, exposing an easily breakable substrate. If you do not immediately work on the seam over the foam sealant, gradually the foam will crumble and under the influence of the sun and wind for a few months will turn into rubbish.

8

The best way to seal seams is recognizedthe following: on the inner surface of the prepared seam, the mounting foam is applied and immediately, without waiting for its solidification, a tubular seal is embedded in the seam inside the seam. Then, after the final drying of the foam, the seam is treated from above with a sealant.

You will need

• - a hammer
• - putty knife
• - solution
• - fiberglass
• - glue
• - puttying

Instructions

1

Take a spatula and cut the ceiling the seam as deep as possible. If the plaster will fall out pieces, then remove all that is not holding properly. Tap the entire seam with the handle from the spatula, and if there are places where the sound is deaf - this means that the solution is kept on an "honest word" and it needs to be removed. Take the hammer and beat everything that weakly holds to the base of the plate.

2

Then clean the entire seam from the dust and treat it with deep penetration. As soon as the soil dries, cover the seam "Concrete - contact" for better adhesion of mortar and slab.

3

Put the dry plaster mixture in the dishes, aswritten in the instructions, but make it a little thicker. This is necessary in order to keep the solution on the ceiling, and not fall to the floor. Do not try to plaster the seam immediately, otherwise it will "blush" under the weight of the solution and fall off.

4

Stucco gradually, first applyplaster on the edges of the ceiling seam and allow the solution to solidify, but not until the end. Then cover the seam with a softer solution and flatten the surface with a large spatula. The seam should be flush with the ceiling plate, and not protrude with its edges above the ceiling.

5

Dry the seam until it dries completely, cork andcover with soil. Then cut off a piece of fiberglass, wider than the seam itself by a few centimeters, and glue it to the ceiling. Do it this way: spread the glue sufficiently thick and spread the ceiling. Then attach the canvas and press it with a trowel or brush. Remove remaining glue with a damp sponge.

6

If you are going to paint the ceiling, then zashpaklyayteFiberglass finishing shpaklevkoy. Dilute it, as written in the instructions, and zashpaklyuchayte canvas, covering it by a few centimeters. When the putty dries, pat it and cover it with soil. Then zashpaklyukte seam again, so that the ceiling is perfectly even, and let the surface dry out. After that, carefully sand the seam with a fine sandpaper and work with the soil. The ceiling is ready for painting.

You will need

• - scraper,
• - putty knife,
• - roller,
• - a brush-maklovitsa,
• - PVA glue.

Instructions

1

Clean the expansion joints between the floor slabs from the cement or lime mortar. Rinse all the layers of whitewash before the reinforced concrete slabs.

2

Expand the gap with a spatula, making a V-shapeddeepening depth of at least 3 mm. Clean the gap from dust. Apply a special primer to the ceiling using a mache brush and roller. Thoroughly coat the whole surface of the ceiling, including the seams and cracks. Allow the primer to dry.

3

Prepare a cement or lime mortar. Add the PVA glue to it. The glue will make the solution more plastic and sturdy. Add the glue in a 1:10 ratio.

4

Place the solution on the bottom of the V-shaped cracks and smear all over the indentation. For the convenience of applying the solution in depth cracks you can scoop it with a regular tablespoon and a sharp movement "poke" into the slot. Allow the solution to dry and cure.

5

Fill the gap with 2/3 solution and spread over the entire surface cracks. Allow the solution to dry.

6

Apply the next layer of mortar and rub it level with the ceiling surface.

7

Stick a wide metal mesh, reinforcing solution.

8

Put the plaster and let it dry.

9

Apply a layer of putty on the entire surface of the ceiling and allow it to dry.

10

Sand the ceiling with special abrasive tools or sandpaper.

11

In order to repair large cracks, you can apply a special bandage. Take a strip of linen or cotton fabric so that it goes to the edges of the crack for 2-3 cm. Stretch and iron the fabric so that it does not shrink later. Dampen the cloth in the glue, wring out and place on the slit. Spread gently with a spatula and allow to dry. After that, you can apply the putty.

You will need

• - metal brush;
• - a vacuum cleaner;
• - a sponge;
• - mounting foam;
• - tape PSUL;
• - polyurethane foam heater;
• - wooden spatula;
• - Mastic or sealant.

Instructions

1

Clean the entire wall covering from the inside, wallpaper,plasterboard structures, ceramic tiles, etc. Fully suture the seam and clean it of debris. Without regret, remove everything that flakes and falls off. Wipe all the seams with a hard metal brush, then sweep out all the rubbish. Using a vacuum cleaner with a long nozzle, clean the gap from debris and dust, if possible - wipe it with a damp sponge.

2

Choose foam polyurethane insulation, thicknessslightly more seam (10-20%) and cut it so as to fill the entire gap, with the minimum number of joints. Pay attention, along this material can not be cut, because it loses its properties. Can be used as a hollow (in the form of a tube), and integral insulation.

3

Take the mounting foam cylinder and fill the seam overThe entire length, using a gun with a long nozzle. Do not try to fill the seam completely, note that the foam will expand approximately 3 times during expansion. It will fill all the voids and crevices, and it will only solidify in a day. If the seam is through, try to protect the foam from direct sun rays, laying the seam before filling with a wide tape PSUL.

4

Not waiting for the moment when the foam will freeze,directly lay the foam polyurethane heater in it. With the help of a wooden spatula, pound it into the seam, trying not to tear it and as closely as possible to join it in length.

5

Put the heater in the inter-panel seam tightly,but not very deep, it should not protrude from the seam, but at the same time there must be room for mastic. Therefore, put it so that there is a depression of 1-3 mm. After the construction has solidified, apply a sealing mastic, for example, any domestic sealant.

6

Instead of a heater you can use a stuccocomposition. In this case, fill the seam with 2/3 of the mounting foam, and cover the rest of the seam with the cement-sand mixture, leveling the seam with the inner wall. To avoid drying and cracking the seam, spray it with water from time to time, especially if you have central heating switched on during work.

You will need

• - painting knife;
• - Wide brush;
• - putty knife;
• - primer;
• - putty;
• - A serpian.

Instructions

1

Scraper seams between sheets drywall. When installing structures on the ceiling, it is not alwaysit is possible to join it with those places where there is a factory chamfer. Therefore, take a usual sharp or paint knife and remove the homemade chamfer, that is, cut the edges of the cardboard and widen the seams.

2

Mark with a broad brush the joints. Remove cardboard burrs and dust from gypsum.

3

Prepare the primer. Pay attention that in a room with high humidity you need moisture-proof impregnation. Seal the joints with protective primer using a brush. Dry well. Brush after work immediately rinse in water.

4

Prepare a mixture to fill the joints betweensheets of plasterboard. You can use the finished latex filler, which is sold in plastic pails. It does not shrink and looks good on the ceiling, which will be painted. And you can make a mass for sealing joints from the usual finish putty, which you probably bought for repair.

5

Pour into the bucket the necessary amount of gypsumfinish the mixture, pour water and stir with a construction mixer, which is fixed on the drill. The mass reminds on a consistence a thick sour cream, it should not flow down from a spatula. Finished putty has a homogeneous structure. Any unmounted lump or piece of old mixture will ruin your work. It will leave furrows on the plastered surface that are difficult to remove.

6

Hook a small amount of putty with a small spatula. Pressing the mass into the joint between the sheets, spread it along the entire seam.

7

Cut off a piece of gray that correspondsthe length of the stuck seam. Glue it in place of the joint to the already applied fresh gypsum mass. Smooth and iron with a spatula. The grid must be firmly pressed into the putty. Allow time to dry completely the sealed joints.

8

Attach the fine-grained sandpaper to thea special typewriter or on an ordinary wooden bar. Wear a respirator and construction glasses. Sand all the stitches. The surface should be perfectly flat.

9

Sprinkle the stitched seams with a primer and dry. Now your ceiling is ready for painting or wallpapering.

You will need

• - grout
• - putty knife
• - water
• - Painting tape

Instructions

1

Select the type of grouting. If you are going to seal seams in a bathroom or kitchen, then take thatgrout from cement, in which polymer additives are added. Since it is precisely such a material that is particularly resistant to moisture and corrosive liquids.

2

For grouting areas that withstand heavy loads on walls and floors, use a material with special additives. The seam treated with this solution will be immune to damage.

3

Pour warm water into the container and pour inher trowelling mixture. Be sure to observe the proportions specified in the instructions. Stir the mixture thoroughly with a mixer or manually until smooth.

4

Tiled seams pour water to prevent the absorption of liquid from the trowel ends. Apply the mixture on seams with a trowel or a special spatula.

5

Scrape the excess mixture with a spatula and apply again on the seam. Allow the filled joints to dry. Then wash the surface of the liner. Residue the solution gently scrape off the ends of the tile.

6

After an hour after the desiccation of the trowelling mixture, peel the ceramic lining with a sponge. It is recommended that all seams protective fluids.

7

When using silicone that fills seams, creating a moisture-resistant quality layer, you get a finish that never fissures. Cook seams to work by gluing their butts along the entire length with a special tape that will speed up the process of applying the composition and close the face of the tiles from the stains.

8

Sealant is applied in the intertight seam, leaving a small margin. Carefully insert silicone in an even layer, in no case do not leave voids.

9

Align the applied material with a spatula to give the finished seam a finished appearance. Tear off the paint tape and use a soft paper to remove excess grouting.

You will need

• - silicone
• - liquid Nails
• - Brush
• - fillet
• - hand gun

Instructions

1

If the distance between the bathroom and the wall is severalmillimeters, then use an aquarium silicone. It reliably protects the formed gap from getting water into it, and you do not have to worry about the fact that you have pierced the neighbors.

2

Take any solvent and degreaseadjoining the bath and the wall. Do this job with gloves and a mask. Next, take a tube with silicone, make a hole in it and put on the tip that is attached to the tube. Insert it into a special gun and gently squeeze the contents, directing the silicone into the gap between the bathroom and the wall. Silicone is an elastic mass and you can easily fill the space by moving the gun with the tube as you like. Try to fill the gap between the bathroom and the wall in one step, otherwise, when the mass cools, it will not be possible to apply the next layer.

3

Dilute the soap solution and moisten in it.brush for drawing or glue. Then bring it to the surface, which you filled with silicone and guide it in one direction. This point is important to remember. If you hold the brush chaotically, the seam turns rough and not even. Since silicone is an elastic aggregate, it will take the form that you give it with a brush.

4

There is another way that will help to solvethe problem of the joint of the bath and the wall is to glue the fillet (glazing bead) for the bathroom. In its essence, it is a plinth for a bath, which is made of polyurethane and which does not absorb water. Degrease the surface of the bath and the wall with a solvent and allow to dry. Measure the sides of the bathroom and cut the fillet in size (the standard bath has a size of 1.50 m by 0.70 m)

5

Saw the corners of fillets at an angle of 45 degrees, likeFor interior skirting and sand with fine sandpaper. Take liquid nails for damp rooms, apply to the inner side of the fillet and let stand for 2 or 3 minutes. After this, put it so that it overlaps the slot, and do not press it for a long time. Then separate the fillet from the wall, allow it to lie down for 2 or 3 minutes, so that the glue dries and press again. Now the glue will firmly hold your plinth. Do so and with the other sides of the bathroom, but especially carefully work with the joints of the corners. From how accurately you filmed the fillets and pasted them, will depend on the final result of the work.

6

Once the fillets are glued, apply toupper and lower abutment of the sides of the baseboard an even layer of aquarium silicone. Then moisten the brush in soapy water and pass it along the perimeter of the fillets in one direction.