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You will need

• - drill with a drill Ø2-3 mm;
• - Abrasive wheel;
• - repair kit for cosmetic repair of baths made of acrylic;
• - repair kit for overhaul of acrylic bathtubs;
• - sandpaper №№ 100, 200, 400;
• - universal plaster (epoxy, "pe brulex", etc.);
• - enamel for baths ("stakril", "epoxin", "tikkurila reaflex 50", etc.);
• - reinforcing tape with glass fiber;
• - Alcohol.

Instructions

1

Repair of through damage (cracks, holes)acrylic baths Drill holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm at the ends of the crack. This is done to prevent their further development. Strip the place of damage with sandpaper No. 100, degrease it with alcohol.

2

Mix the resin from the repair kit for the capitalrepair acrylic baths with hardener in the proportions specified in the instructions. Apply a layer of resin to the repair site. Apply reinforcing material over the resin. Press it into the resin and apply on top of the second layer of the adhesive component, ensuring that it soaks the material and penetrates all pores. Wait until the resin hardens. The waiting time is indicated in the instructions for the repair kits. In some of them, it is required to superimpose several layers of reinforcing material. Fulfill these requirements.

3

After applying and hardening of all layers, clean the repair area first with sandpaper No. 200, then -№400. Make sure that the treated surface is as smooth and smooth as possible.

4

Treate the surface of repair with alcohol and apply on it a polish from repair kit for cosmetic repair of acrylic bathtubs. Polish the repair site with a flannel.

5

Repair of through holes of cast iron and steel bathtubs the hole in the cast-iron bath has the appearance of a crack, drill in its ends an electric drill with holes 2-3 mm in diameter. In an iron bath this can not be done.

6

Deal with an electric drill withabrasive circle in such a way that a crater-shaped funnel forms around the damage. The fault location must be cleaned to a clean metal. The larger the chamfer will have and the more shallow its edges, the better.

7

Degrease the repair area with alcohol. Combine with a hardener a universal epoxy-based filler in the proportion specified in the instructions. Apply the mixture to the edges of the damage. Glue the reinforcing tape with fiberglass to the damage, tightly pressing it against the surface. Apply another layer of putty over the tape. Give it time to harden a little. Repeat the operation with the reinforcement tape applied again. When coating it with resin, try to make the surface of the damage slightly higher than the surrounding surface of the bath.

8

After the final hardening of the resinrub the damage first with sandpaper No. 100, then with No. 400. Try to ensure that the damage surface is at the same level with the surrounding surface. Degrease it with alcohol and apply one of the enamels for baths ("stakril", "epoxy", "tikkurila reaflex 50", etc.). Since the technology of applying enamels can be different, follow the instructions to the specific material.

Tip 2: How to drill a cast iron bath

During the repair before the builders can stand upthe problem of drilling a cast-iron bath to install a mixer, drain or for other purposes. Cast iron itself is drilled, as a rule, without problems, but how to avoid chipping the enamel?

You will need

• - Drill;
• - diamond drill or bit;
• - drill for metal;
• - Rubber nozzle with abrasive rings;
• - grinding machine;
• - sealant or epoxy adhesive;
• - water;
• - conductor.

Instructions

1

Using a marker, mark the drilling point on the enamel layer. To prevent the drill from slipping, scratch the point with the stylus or the end of the drill.

2

To drill an enamel layer, usediamond drill. Drill very slowly, constantly cooling the place of drilling with water, not allowing it to heat up. In order to cool the drilling point, draw a tube that feeds water to it, be very careful, do not forget that you have a power tool in your hands.

3

Drilling the enamel, change the drill bit tousual for metal. If you need a small hole, first drill a small diameter hole, and then drill it with thicker bits. Do not forget to cool the metal and drill slowly, if it heats up and "whitening" goes on the surface - the drill will be dull already on the first millimeter, since the cast iron will become harder than the hardened steel.

4

If you need a large diameter hole,make a conductor from a piece of plywood with a central hole. First, drill through the conductor to remove the enamel layer with a drill bit on the glass or tile. Then remove the conductor and drill with a conventional metal drill. Note that the holes in the conductor should be located at a distance of not more than 1 mm, then the disk will be removed easily. Bleach the hole from the inside with a rubber nozzle with abrasive rings from nazhdachki.

5

If you have a sanding machine, try drilling as follows: grind the enamel along the contour with it, then drill along the contour with a small drill and shape the edge with the same grinder.

6

If, after all, part of the enamel is chipped off, close the edges of the hole with a decorative chrome-plated cup of the appropriate diameter.

7

When you drill a hole in a cast iron bath, cover the surface of bare iron with a sealant or epoxy glue, otherwise the rusty stains will start to appear on the enamel after the mixer is installed on the enamel.