LovesTheTeam.com

Instructions

1

Let's try to make a cask yourself. We begin with riveting. Let's choose wood. For salting and souring, the barrel is best made from oak, the barrel for honey should be made of linden, chinar or aspen. You can take alder, poplar, alder. The bottom of the trunk of the old tree is usually used for riveting. Split in half the chock, which is longer than the future riveting of centimeters by 5. Each of the halves is pricked in half. And so on, until we get pieces of 5-10x2.5-3 cm.

2

Dry punctured blanks in a well-ventilatedindoor month. Better - more. Already dried billets are treated with a plow and a plane, starting with the riveting of the outer side of the rivet. Then we plan the sides. Finish the processing of the sidewalls with a fog

3

At the next stage, we process the inner surface of our riveting. Superfluous can be shoved by a plane or an ax. If the width of the rivet varies - there is nothing wrong with that.

4

Now we make hoops. It is better to take steel. Take for them hot-rolled steel tape thickness of 1.5-2 mm, the width should be 30-50 mm. We measure the barrel in place of the supposed location of the hoop with a tolerance for the dimensions of the double width of the strip. With a hammer, attach the tape to the shape of the ring. We drill holes at its ends for rivets. At the location of the hoops are onions (center), choruses (edge) and cervical (intermediate).

5

Assembly. This process is carried out on a flat surface. To the hoop we fix 2 clamps, one opposite the other. Then we spread the rivets to the previous ones, one at a time. And so until the hoop is filled with rivets. Check the density of the riveting edges.

6

Next, level the ends of the frame with a hammer and put on the 2nd hoop until it stops. At 2-3 mm from the chopping hoop we cut off the skeleton and clean the ends of the rivet with the plane. In the same way we proceed with the other end of the barrel.

7

When tightening the hoops of the drum frame, no operations such as steaming or welding of the core itself are required.

8

It remains to do donu. We collect the bottom shield from the melted and melted on the sides of the clover. We fasten the clover with the help of nails. Find the radius of the future bottom, and cut the bottom with a margin of 1-1.5 mm.

9

We loosen the hoop, insert the bottom and tap it to the stop. The bottom should not go tight. In this case, the hoop is weakened. If the bottom is loose - tighten the hoop.

10

Now we need to make sure that we do not havea barrel of cracks. Pour a little water and see if it flows where. The leak between the riveting will tell you that the bottom needs to be reduced by overloading the excess. If the water runs right through the bottom, then you need to disassemble the barrel and one of the clasps to narrow.

11

When nothing flows, establish a second bottom with an opening for infusion of 30-32 mm. We make a cork and put it in place. The barrel is ready.

You will need

• - an ax;
• - wood;
• - Sherhebel;
• - plane;
• - jointer;
• - steel tape;
• - a hammer;
• - Drill;
• - wire;
• - Staples.

Instructions

1

Pick up the wood. You should be aware that the choice of wood depends on the purpose for which you intend to use barrel. For example, pine and oak are absolutely not suitable forstorage of honey. Honey from a pine barrel will smell like resin, but in an oak tree it will darken. For such barrels it is recommended to use aspen, linden, alder, poplar or plane tree. For oatmeal, salting and watering, oak is the best choice. For other purposes, you can use cedar, spruce, beech, larch, fir or birch.

2

You should know that it is recommended to use the lower part of the trunk of old trees for staves. However, in the absence of such an option, thin trunks are also suitable.

3

The riveting follows from raw wood. Take a suitable chuck. Its length should be 6-7 cm more than the required length of the finished riveting. Carefully split it in half with an ax. Split the resulting halves of chocks once again in half. Act by analogy - the number of splits depends on the original thickness of the chocks. As a result, you should receive blanks 7-12 cm wide and 3 cm thick.

4

Thoroughly dry the riveting. To speed up the process, you can use a dryer.

5

Make a template to check the radius of curvature of the surfaces. It can be made from a thin board, checking with any finished barrel.

6

Choose the type of riveting. It should be noted that the riveting may be pottery or kedushchnoy. At kusushhechnoy - one end is another. In kocharnoy - expansion in the middle. As a rule, the ratio between the narrowest and widest part is 1: 1.8.

7

Carefully process the riveting with a planer andSherchebel. First, the outer surface should be trimmed, and then the lateral surface should be stitched. In the process of work, it is necessary to check the curvature of the riveting, checking with the template previously made. Treat the side walls of the rivet with a fuser. Carefully work the inside of the riveting with a planer.

8

Make hoops of steel tape. For this it is necessary to measure barrel in the place of tension of the hoop. Cut the tape of the desired length and bend it into the ring, hitting it with a hammer. Drill holes and install rivets from steel wire.

9

Collect barrel it is necessary on a flat surface. Take two rivets and fasten them to the hoop using special staples against each other. Fill in the resulting gaps, gradually setting the riveting behind the riveting.

10

Saddle the hoop, tap it with a hammer and make sure that the rivets fit tightly to each other. Put on the middle hoop and lay it down with a nib.

11

Deliver barrel on a flat surface and mark the cut line. Wear a chiffon hoop, trim the skeleton and process the cut line with the help of a plane. Do the same procedure from the other end of the keg.

12

Make a groove in which the bottom of the barrel will be inserted. The width and depth of the groove should be 3 mm.

13

Calculate the radius of the bottom. Collect the bottom shield by attaching it with nails. Cut the chamfers from the edges using the shrewheel.

14

Insert the bottom into the barrel. To do this, you must first install one edge of the bottom in the groove, and then insert the rest of the part, slightly striking it with a hammer. Check with the tightness of the barrel.

15

Make a second bottom by analogy. Drill a filling hole in it. Make a cork. The height of the plug should correspond to the thickness of the bottom of the barrel.

You will need

• - Universal aerosol paint;
• - Painting tape;
• - flat rounded stones;
• - metal rod;
• - clay pots.

Instructions

1

Decoration, which will perform the role of colorStains on a monophonic smooth lawn, can be made from flat stones of round shape, having painted them under bright beetles. Wash the blanks and dry well. The composition will turn out to be expressive, if you find four or five suitable stones of different sizes.

2

Paint with a white or yellow spray paint some of the stone where the eyes of the future beetle will be and leave the workpiece dry. As a rule, this takes two to four hours.

3

Cut out pieces of paint, size andForm coinciding with the beetle's eyes. Stick the tape on the areas of the painted stone where the eyes should be. Scotch will preserve color when applying the next layers of paint.

4

Take a color of another color and processThe surface of the workpiece at the location of other small parts. If you paint a stone under a ladybug, treat the places where the head and black spots will be. After letting the next layer dry, cut the stencils out of the scotch in the form of spots and a head. Stick them on the stone in the right places.

5

Paint the entire surface of the stone with a background color. Wait until the composition dries completely and paint the paint tape. If you made several beetles, place them on the lawn one by one so that the largest lies ahead, and at the end of the row, the one that is the least.

6

From a metal rod and clay pots, you canmake a decoration for the site, decorated in the style of country or colonial. Decorative element in such a design can be both ceramic containers, and placed in them plants. Select several clay flower pots with a diameter of about twenty centimeters and a metal rod about a half to two centimeters in diameter.

7

Dig a rod that will play the role of supportOf the whole structure, to the ground by a third of its length. Put the first pot on the rod bottom up. If the drainage opening of the container was slightly less than the diameter of the support, expand it with a narrow file.

8

String the rest of the pots on the rod bottom down. In each of the tanks, fill a layer of drainage, garden soil and plant ornamental or spicy plants. When filling pots with soil, divert them in different directions from the center so that the upper container rests on the bottom edge. In droughty weather, such a flower garden will require frequent watering, as the soil in clay pots dries quickly enough.